Purple
eggplant and Tinder in Hebrew graffiti give clues to the local lifestyles of Tel
Aviv, Israel. Follow the chic hipsters to pinpoint the fun hang out spots. Roam
the shady boulevards, beaches, and promenades with the outdoorsy. Twisted roots
spiral Banyan tree trunks, tropical flowers burst tangerine and fuchsia petals.
Territorial drivers battle for limited parking spaces. Stay alert, you might
find one. After wandering around for awhile, the city looks like white boxes of
Bauhaus architecture, smells like thick pollen, tastes like tahini hummus,
sounds like the whirr of electric bikes, and feels like toes in the sand of the
Mediterranean Sea. Welcome to the urban jungle of Tel Aviv.
Most
importantly, hunt for food. Israeli cuisine takes chickpeas and sesame seeds
seriously. Prioritize on chowing down on hummus and tahini. First choice,
Hummus HaCarmel at the Shuk HaCarmel 11 proves the yummiest place on a budget.
Just behind the eggplant stands, a grand entrance with geometric stained glass
windows with stars of David and a calm interior with synagogue books modestly
awaits. Order a plate of hummus with whole chickpeas, onion slices, and drizzles
of tahini, green salsa, and olive oil. Good luck rationing the two pitas to
finish the entire plate. Take a deep breath to reenter the hustle of the
bazaar. Alternatively, grab a table in an alley just outside the hustle of the
bazaar at Solomon and Doron Hummus at Yishkon 29. The savory hummus and foule,
broad green bean dip, arrive with wedges of onion and lemon slices, and
unlimited fresh, warm pita bread that arrives in containers on motorbikes. As a
bonus, rub elbows with the locals and fellow travelers. Time to walk off lunch
with a trip to the beach.
Emerge
out of the jungle to the Mediterranean Sea. Fresh, salty air and wavy, wooden
promenades beckon all to the beach. Scantily clad beachgoers sunbathe while the
more athletic Israelis play matkot, a paddle ball game, jog along the waves,
and play football in the tides. Go surf, standup paddleboard, or paraglide,
depending on the waves and the wind. Dip your toes in the water and sit in the
sand; beach chairs cost extra shekels. Barefoot, watch out for the cigarette
butts and bottle caps littering the sand. Roll your eyes at the intimidating
“swimming forbidden” signs on wooden posts along the beach. Also, black flags
line the beach to signal high sea pollution --- Gaza dumps raw sewage into the sea
when the treatment plant lacks electricity. Listen for the obnoxious intercom
announcements of lifeguards enforcing the laws of the sand: “no swimming, the
water is dirty!” On less dirty days, wade into the greenish blue shallows. Swim
out towards the rock wave breakers. Rainbow facades, stark white hotels, and
shiny, abstract skyscrapers with helipads all line up. Returning to shore,
friendly dogs may try to lick the salt off your shins. Go rinse off at the
outdoor shower and confidently pull the wooden handle on the chain. Sploosh,
clean water!
Fully
charged on Vitamin D, take refuge in the shade to hydrate. Ancient banyan trees
shade the benches and café kiosks on Rothschild and Ben Tsiyon Boulevards,
which have separate bike and pedestrian lanes. Techies on electric bikes,
scooters, skateboards, and hoverboards somehow avoid colliding into the quite
oblivious pedestrians glued to their iphone screens. Dogs of all breeds reign
the sidewalks: they lap water at the fountains and doggie bowls near kiosks and
then empty their bladders against the tree trunks scarred with the carved
initials of lovers. Café Habima at Ben Tsiyon Blvd 31 serves coffee,
sandwiches, and pitchers of water with mint leaves and lemon slices. Showing
off a tough bohemian look, tattooed hipsters in bug-eyed sunglasses and skinny
jeans sip espresso. Down-to-earth dads and moms swaddle their babies on the
benches. Parents and grandparents push super fancy strollers or
kibbutz-inspired wooden cribs on wheels packed with toddlers. Nearby Habima
Square brings family and friends together to enjoy the cacti and classical
music at the rectangular pit terraces of the Ya'akov Garden. Fingers crossed,
an acro yoga flash mob arrives to break the monotony with a splash of color in
motion.
The
fun, spontaneous atmosphere survives in a bubble that may suddenly pop. Life's
not all vine-swinging and dancing in the trees. Notice the reminders of the
looming Israeli-Palestinian conflict. Run carefree to a playground or
basketball court; then come across a bomb shelter partially disguised in
children’s art. Oh right, possible missiles. Open up your backpack for
inspection and say hello to the guard in Hebrew before entering the Dizengoff
Center. Oh yeah, possible racial profiling. Inside at Rebar, stand in line
behind Israeli youth in olive green IDF uniform, their guns swinging at the
hips. Then, order a delicious, creamy smoothie with tahini and silan, a date
honey syrup, in an eco-unfriendly Styrofoam cup. Vigilantly, take a big slurp
and walk back out into the sunshine.