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Reflection on Turkish culture in Istanbul

Living in the bourgeois-bohemian neighborhood of Cihangir on the European side of Istanbul, Turkey, for four years, left me a lasting impression of the place and its people. Most importantly, I observed how Turkish culture values hospitality, service, and close family life. Both Turkish waiters at restaurants and hosts at homes go all out with tea and coffee to make guests feel welcome. Secondly, Turkish consumers expect fast, inexpensive service. They rely on smartphone apps such as Yemeksepeti to order food from restaurants and KapGel to order coffee from Starbucks. Thirdly, Turkish families often seek to maintain close-knit relationships at the expense individual privacy or independence. Single, adult men and women continue to live with their families before marriage without carrying any stigma. Turkish grandparents try to take an active role in their grandchildren’s daily life. Comparing and contrasting gave me great insight into my American cultural background. I learned that the American values of privacy, independence, ‘the customer is always right’ kind of service, and ‘make yourself at home’ hospitality could sometimes leave something to be desired. Ultimately, I greatly appreciated how life in Istanbul adapted me to the unique cuisine and sounds of Turkish street culture.

I would describe the Turkish cuisine as simplicity of flavor. Each savory dish focuses on one or two flavors. For example, fava is a green, mashed broad bean dip with dill in the shape of a soft, rectangular block. Eggplant salad is a mashed, burnt eggplant dip with garlic. Red lentil soup is a thick lentil soup with parsley and lemon juice. Fistik kebap are juicy meatballs with pistachios cooked on skewers. Cig kofte are vegan lentil balls made with spicy red pepper paste, bulgur, and green onions. Pide is a boat-shaped, goat cheese pizza with an egg cracked on top. Lahmacun is a thin crust pizza with ground lamb meat and fresh parsley on top. Grilled fish sandwiches include sliced tomatoes, arugula, and a squeeze of lemon. Basically, Turks can afford to be a nation of picky eaters with such a fantastic cuisine.

Next, I would describe Istanbul’s soundscape as a sea of noise. On certain blocks the noise may be so loud that it is impossible to hear the person standing next to you. “…And that is the meaning of life,” I would say in between sound blasts. The daily sounds may include the shouts of Turkish men selling fruits, vegetables, and bread on the streets; the horns of docking or departing cruise ships and container ships floating along the Bosphorus; the honks of taxis and cars; the dings of the tramway; the rattling jackhammers drilling at construction sites; the calls to prayer reverberating from the speakers attached to the mosque minarets; cats meowing and screeching at each other; the early morning drums during the month of Ramadan; and, my favorite, the cry of seagulls. Basically, the cacophony of sounds orients the listener to what goes on in the city.  I often thought that Istanbul should create a decibel map by measuring the level of noise around the city. As the popular T-shirt says, some call Istanbul chaos, but I called it home.