Skip to main content

Halloween in Istanbul

As the days shorten and the weather turns chilly and overcast, I notice how my Turkish students transition from autumn to winter.  Thoughts turn to warm comfort food to bring to friends and neighbors. Seasonal fruits and vegetables, including the plump red pomegranate and the bright orange pumpkin, arrive to the local markets.  As an American teacher living in Istanbul, the sight of pumpkin reminds me of Halloween; I decide to bring carve orange jack-o'-lanterns with my students at their English lessons. This year Halloween lands on the Saturday night before the snap election on November 1, 2015. Turks know Halloween as Cadilar Bayrami, or Witches Day. While Turkish children do not necessarily go out trick or treating, there are plenty of house parties to dress up at. In fact, Istanbul may prove a great place to celebrate an especially spooky Halloween.

Most importantly, Turkish cuisine naturally lends itself to autumn and winter flavors.  Turkish families prepare asure, or Noah’s Pudding, a sweet, rich porridge of mixed nuts, grains, and fruits to give out to friends, family, and neighbors.  It may include chickpeas, wheat, rice, beans, lentils, sugar, dried apricots, raisins, orange and lemon zest, pomegranate seeds, coconut, and cinnamon.  Local pudding shops such as Saray Muhallebicisi serve asure in addition to desserts like candied pumpkin with walnuts.  If you still cannot get enough pumpkin in your diet, go visit the Tarlabasi Sunday Market for kilos of carved pumpkin slices.  Of course, there is always pumpkin chai latte at Starbucks.  As far as savory food goes, vampires may wish to avoid the patlican salatasi, or eggplant salad, and the garlic soup as they contain a lot of garlic.

Secondly, locals greatly enjoy dressing up in costumes for special occasions.  For Halloween parties, try browsing the costumes, including masks, feather boas, and bead necklaces, for rent and sale at Mitra Kostum costumes on Yeni Carsi Avenue downhill from Galatasaray Square on Istiklal Avenue. You may find face makeup and hair coloring chalk at Mac or the Body Shop on Istiklal. If you would like to dye your hair auburn red at home, buy a 100 grams of green henna powder from the Egyptian Spice Market at Eminonu. In addition, Turkish stylists at any hair salon will do their best to transform you into your chosen monster, demon or fairytale creature.

Thirdly, sightseeing places in Istanbul may easily provide creepy, scary vibes with a little imagination.  Cemeteries with marble tombstones and historical inscriptions allow us to honor the dead and reflect on our own mortality.  While in the area of Taksim Square, visit the cemetery at the Galata Mevlevi Lodge at Tunel Square on Istiklal.  Check out the variety of turbans carved into the tombstones of whirling dervishes and Sufi Muslims.  If you would like to see dancers spinning spiritually in large white robes and woolen fez caps, attend a whirling dervish ceremony.  On your walk down to Galata Tower, feel free to dress up in Ottoman Sultan robes for a portrait at Giycek Old Time Photo Studio.  If you like how you look, consider visiting the Grand Bazaar to pick out your own belly dancing outfit, Ottoman baggy pants, turbans, slippers, and jewelry for a Halloween costume party.  Just next to Galata Tower, pretend to be a vampire and stop for a goblet of wine and a plate of cheese and charcuterie at the Sensus wine boutique below the Anemon Hotel.

If you would like to see a larger cemetery, go visit Eyup and stop at the Pierre Loti café. A teleferique carries passengers up the hill. It is also pleasant to walk along the paths throughout the cemetery and watch people visit the graves of their family members. At the fountain near Eyup square, try a warm cup of boza, a lemony, creamy fermented grain drink.