Skip to main content

Martha's Vineyard

My family and I visit Martha’s Vineyard the day before July 4th during our family vacation in Cape Cod. 

An early morning ferryboat takes us from Hyannis to Martha’s Vineyard in about an hour.  Passengers with freckled faces and sunburned necks wear baseball caps, baggy, plaid shorts, and polo t-shirts.

We land at the ferry dock in Vineyard Haven.  Teenagers at Martha’s bike shop assemble bikes, helmets, and baskets for us to rent.  They tell us we are among the few who sign the liability waiver.

The sun shines on us as we start our ride along the marshes and coast.  Arriving at the quaint Edgartown, we admire the wooden Victorian houses.  Taking in the view of the sea, we stop at a marsh for photos.  A lady jumps out of her car to take our photo.

A short ride away, we swing by Humphrey’s of West Tisbury for sandwiches.  They bake their own bread and roll in dough.  I order a “Californian” with avocado, sprouts, and turkey breast on homemade sour dough bread.

We do not bother to lock up our bikes as we assume theft does not happen during a patriotic weekend on a vacation island.  After the brief food break, we continue to ride our bikes through the woods along the highway.  Struggling with the gears of my rental bike, I lag far behind everyone else on the trail.

Arriving at the Scottish Bakehouse, we lie down and stretch out our muscles on the grass lawn outside.  Coconut water hydrates us.  The Brazilian staff serve us black beans, spicy sweet potatoes, kale, coconut tofu, black rice, and vegetables at the outdoor picnic table.  Our appetites grow with each delicious bite.

Sore and tired, we hop back onto our bikes, and return to the highway.  Traffic does not slow for us even though it is a narrow road on a steep hill, and the drivers seem unnecessarily aggressive.  Returning the bikes to Martha’s Vineyard bike shop, the staff tells us that drivers from New York are still uptight and will relax more on the roads after they decompress over the holiday weekend.  Hopefully, they decompress soon because they almost compressed us on the road.

Taking a taxi to Vineyard Haven, the Bulgarian driver, who returns to work on Martha’s Vineyard during the holidays, allows us to negotiate the fare.

While waiting for our return ferry, we wander Vineyard Haven.  Reminding us of childhood, we stroll through the indoor Flying Horses Carousel.  The tantalizing aroma of fudge wafting down the street guides us to Murdick’s Fudge.  People watching, we admire the tattoos of motorcyclists from New Hampshire.  Finally, we return to the docks, pet the dogs and praise the children of fellow passengers, and finally board the ferry back home to Cape Cod.