Article and Photography by BECKIE LOEWENSTEIN
Descending from the top of the Hat Mountain(帽儿山: Mao Er Shan), a peasant herds two cows. The cows hungrily graze on the lush green undergrowth of the forest. Their four hooves are loosely bound together with rope, slowing them down and making them easier to guard. With an occasional stumble, they lunge forward to the next morsel of grass. Cowbells clanging, the cows sway their heads in between mouthfuls of leaves.
The cows are nameless. The herder, their owner, guides them out to feed in the forest and pasture. But he does not want to build an emotional attachment with these animals. They are not pets. They are destined for slaughter. The cows will bring in wealth and financial security to the herder's family. The larger the cows grow, the more flesh there will be to sell in the meat market. The only names the cows ever receive are those of Chinese dishes.
The climb up Hat Mountain attracts city folk who want to get a breath of fresh air out in the countryside. There are also relaxing evening activities such as karaoke, bonfires, fireworks, and firecrackers.
The most rewarding experience is the climb up the mountain. The climb up the thousand plus stone steps brings about dizziness in some climbers. There are no handrails to lean upon. On a rainy day the stone steps are slippery with mud. Reaching the top of the mountain requires some rock climbing with iron chains as hand grips.
The hungry climber can snack on the orange ice cream for sale on the path. Fresh countryside food awaits at the restaurant at the foot of the mountain. The menu includes steamed potatoes, fresh tomatoes and cucumbers, dofu soup, and sweet fried eggplant. Oh, there is also a delicious beef soup with greens.
