Article and Photography By BECKIE LOEWENSTEIN Rivers do not have to be clean to attract fishers, bathers, and swimmers. The Songhua River of Harbin, China, is no exception. Newspapers and television stations in Harbin warn that the pollutants in the river will bring about illnesses of the skin. Nevertheless, Harbin’s urban dwellers depend on the river for summer leisure activities. Entire families sojourn out to the river to catch fish, wash laundry, scrub clean their pet dogs’ fur, bathe, and swim. Bathers scrub their bodies down with soap. Many do not know how to swim. They sit at the edge of the river to soap their skin, and then rinse off with handfuls of water. The swimmers peel off their clothes down to underpants. After smoking a cigarette or two, they wade into the shallows. They scrub their faces and ears with a bar of soap; the soap bubbles all dissolve during the dive into the murky depths. The Songhua River veteran swimmers notice the difference in water quality. Fifty-two